An ancient funerary trail through the granite heart of Peneda-Gerês, followed by one of the best steaks in Portugal.
The "Trail of the Dead" — Trilho dos Mortos — is an ancient funerary path in Melgaço where, for centuries, villagers carried their dead along this route to be buried at the Castro Laboreiro cemetery. The trail crosses rugged granite terrain through the Serra da Peneda, deep within Peneda-Gerês National Park.
What makes this trail extraordinary is not just the landscape — which is striking — but the weight of history underfoot. Every stone slab, every carved cross along the way marks the passage of generations who walked this same path in mourning. It's a deeply moving experience that connects you to the land in a way few hikes can.
And then, after hours of walking through ancient granite, you reward yourself with one of Portugal's great culinary treasures: a thick-cut Cachena beef steak grilled over charcoal.
Start at Castro Laboreiro village, in the municipality of Melgaço, within Peneda-Gerês National Park. The village is approximately 30 minutes by car from Melgaço town centre. The road is well-paved but winding. Parking is available in the village.
Head to Tasquinha d'Avó in Castro Laboreiro or Adega do Sossego in Melgaço for a "posta de cachena" — a thick-cut steak from the indigenous Cachena cattle breed, the smallest native cattle in Europe. Grilled over charcoal, seasoned simply with coarse salt, and served on a hot stone slab. Rich, flavourful, and utterly deserved after the trail. Pair with local vinho verde.